Patterns from the Past
This page is aimed at re-enactors like myself who want to weave historically accurate or nearly accurate bands but are not possessed of godlike weaving powers - and aren't sure where to start looking for information. I will add new patterns here as I learn more and have time to write up instructions.
These instructions are aimed at people who have done a little tablet weaving but are not very experienced. Please let me know if you find any mistakes or if you think anything could be clearer.
Authenticity Grade "A" Patterns
These instructions will allow you to weave a replica of a specific early-period band.
The Narrow Oseberg Band
Date: early ninth century AD.
Difficulty: very easy.
This simple but elegant band was found in the Oseberg ship burial and is one of the most securely dated and located bands that is known. The original was woven some time before 834 AD when the ship was buried. A variation that can be woven on the same warp setup is also described.
The Laceby Band
Date: early seventh century AD.
Difficulty: medium.
A linen fragment was found attached to a square-headed bronze brooch in an Anglo-Saxon burial ground at Laceby, Lincolnshire. The find was dated to about 600 AD. These instructions describe how to weave Grace Crowfoot's reconstruction of the pattern, a minor variation of the same, and also two motifs from the later Maaseik tablet weaving that can be woven on the same warp set up.
The Snartemo II Band
Date: early sixth century AD.
Difficulty: easy.
The original band was found in Hægebostad in the southern part of Norway and dates to about 500 A.D. The tablets in the central area were threaded with only two threads per tablet, the border tablets with four.
Cambridge Diamonds
Date: disputed. Early Anglo-Saxon, or mediaeval.
Difficulty: easy.
A dyed linen fragment attached to a broken copper-alloy strap end was found in St John's Field, Cambridge, and the original archaeologists described it as Anglo-Saxon. The origin is debated: Penelope Walton Rogers writing in "Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England" considers this strap-end fragment to be mediaeval based on weaving technique and the style of the strap end, but Gale Owen-Crocker accepts it as Anglo-Saxon in "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England". Either way it is an elegant piece, easy to weave and unusual in that it is double-sided.
Finnish SZ
Date: approximately 1200 AD.
Difficulty: easy.
The Kekomöki cemetary in Kaukola, Finland was excavated in the 19th century and a number of interesting textile fragments were discovered. This band has been lost but a detailed drawing exists which shows it as being sewn to the edge of a piece of cloth. The number of tablets used has been estimated between 5 and 7. This version uses eight tablets which makes the weaving instructions simpler.
Finnish Diamonds
Date: approximately 1200 AD.
Difficulty: medium.
A diamond-patterned band was found at the same cemetery in Finland as the Finnish SZ band described above. This band has also been lost and only Theodor Schwindt's drawing remains. The reconstruction shown here is woven using the same threaded-in method as seen in the Cambridge diamonds fragment.
Authenticity Grade "B" Patterns
These patterns have been adapted to make them easier or quicker to weave. However they use period motifs and techniques.
Mammen-inspired Diagonals with Soumak
Date: 10th Century AD.
Difficulty: easy.
The broad brocaded band from Mammen (10th Century, Denmark) features a repeating diagonal motif with additional patterns in between. The original band is embellished with metal brocade (a form of surface weft decoration). This much simplified version includes optional "soumak" weft decoration, which is effectively embroidery that has been worked as you weave the band. The basic band is very easy to weave, though adding soumak is a little more challenging.
Motifs from Mammen Woven in a Missed Hole Technique (eight tablets)
Date: motifs 10th Century AD, technique 12th Century AD
Difficulty: easy.
Diagonal motifs from the Mammen woollen band can be woven in an Icelandic "missed hole" technique, using eight pattern tablets. An additional Viking-style motif that can be woven in the same way is also described.
Motifs from Birka and Mammen Woven in a Missed Hole Technique (ten tablets)
Date: motifs 10th Century AD, technique 12th Century AD
Difficulty: easy.
The Birka brocaded twining motif and the design from the narrow Mammen brocaded band can be woven in an Icelandic "missed hole" technique, using ten pattern tablets. An adaptation of the diamonds motif from the woollen Mammen band and another two Viking-style designs are also described.
Simplified mediaeval motifs in double-faced repp-effect weave
Date: motifs 13th Century AD, technique Iron Age through mediaeval
Difficulty: medium.
The double-faced repp-effect weave is known from Roman Iron Age, early Anglo-Saxon and 13th century finds. It lends itself well to block patterns. A selection of motifs inspired by a 13th century Scottish seal tag are described.
Archive
These instructions have been superceded by new patterns above that are either more authentic or better documented. I have not removed them in case anybody has linked to them, or prefers these versions.
Adapted Birka Twining Motif
Date: motifs 10th Century AD, technique fourth Century AD
Difficulty: easy.
This is based on one of many silver-brocaded bands from Birka in Sweden, dating to the Viking age. This version features the same motif but adapted to be woven as a warp-twined pattern with four threads in each pattern tablet, using a threading scheme known from late Coptic tablet-weaving.
The Cambridge Belt
Date: disputed. Early Anglo-Saxon, or mediaeval.
Difficulty: easy.
A dyed linen fragment attached to a broken copper-alloy strap end was found in St John's Field, Cambridge, and the original archaeologists described it as Anglo-Saxon. The origin is debated: Penelope Walton Rogers writing in "Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England" considers this strap-end fragment to be mediaeval based on weaving technique and the style of the strap end, but Gale Owen-Crocker accepts it as Anglo-Saxon in "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England". Either way it is an elegant piece, easy to weave and unusual in that it is double-sided.
The Snartemo II Band
Date: early sixth century AD.
Difficulty: easy.
The original band was found in Hægebostad in the southern part of Norway and dates to about 500 A.D. The tablets in the central area were threaded with only two threads per tablet, the border tablets with four.